Just in case this year's California wildfires impart a smoky flavor to vintage 2008 wines, here's a recipe that will match up nicely. Otherwise, try this dish - developed by Garre Winery Executive Chef Ty Turner -- with naturally smoky wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Pinot Noir or Syrah.

Smoked Duck a la Orange

Ingredients

* 1 whole duck
* 3 oranges
* 1 T orange zest, grated
* 3 T butter
* Sprig rosemary
* Half an onion
* 1 cup Semillon
* 1/2 cup brown sugar
* 1/2 cup kosher salt
* 1/2 gallon water

Preparation

     1. Make brine by dissolving sugar and salt in water. Add juice of one orange to solution and pour over duck to submerge.  Chill 24 hours.

     2. Remove duck from brine. Stuff orange, onion and rosemary into cavity. Smoke with soaked wood chips over low heat for two to three hours. Remove duck to platter.

     3. Make sauce by reducing wine by 50 percent over medium heat in a non-reactive saucepan. Add zest, juice of oranges and degreased drippings from duck on platter. Reduce until thickened slightly. Turn off heat. Stir in butter and season with salt and pepper to taste.

     4. Pour sauce over carved-up duck, and serve.